Trekking Lebanon

I am excited about seeing the parts of the trail that I missed because of the rain and fog last year. We hike along sheer cliffs that tower high above the countryside below.

When we get to the Afqa cave I venture up to the huge, gaping opening. The cave ceiling is so high that trees growing near the entrance seem like tiny shrubs. I didn’t like the way my blackberry camera showed off the scale so you will just have to get my book to see the amazing picture Norbert took.

Inside Afqa cave

The gushing water inside is bluish green and crystal clear.

Looking out from Afqa cave

This picture shows how close this huge cave is to the road! You can drive very close by!

The day started off cold and got progressively colder. The clouds were playing around us most of the day, giving us brief but exciting glimpses of the dramatic scenery.

Brief patch of sunlight on orchard in Mnaitra

Close to the Reserve de Afqa we go and visit Boutros Asaker, the goat herder. His farm is full of hundreds of baby goats jumping and frolicking on the rocks. He has lost count of how many he has and  shows us 2 adorable ones that are only a couple of hours old.

Christian with week old goat

Adrian and Roger in the Mist

Most of the day was in the cold mist. Being from Britian, Adrian and Roger felt right at home!

Our guide George Sarkis takes us down the valley of Nahr el Joz and up to the beautiful homes in Shatine. There is a very old church on a hilltop that has a bell attached an oak.

George ringing 'tree bell' of old church in Shatine

After a long long uphill we get to the Arab el Hib pass in Laqlouq. At 2012m it is the highest point on the LMT. The wind is so strong we joke about just paragliding down to Aqoura.

It’s only a 12km hike today so we take our time in the morning.  Joseph Karam and I sign our sponsorship agreement just above the cedar forest. Padre informs us that we are at 1950m.

Compared to yesterday’s steep climb today’s contouring trail seems leisurely. Khaled starts collecting empty rifle shells to clean up the trial and many follow suit. Pretty soon the group has collected 3 large bags full.

Roger carrying bags of rifle cartridges

After homemade refreshments at Hotel Karam, we go to visit the newly renovated town square of Hasroun. It’s very pretty but there are so many beautiful homes that are abandoned.

Looking up from the guest house in Qadisha valley to the cliffs above is quite intimidating. We hike in a drizzle all the way up to Bcharre. We can’t resist the smell of saj manakeesh coming out of a small bakery.

By the time we get to the Cedars it is bitter cold and Paul, one of the extended hikers, gallantly gives me his gloves for my freezing hands.

Ancient cedar outside the forest

After yesterday’s grueling 21km hike we really enjoyed a peaceful and relaxing day in the valley. We started at the (relatively) luxurious Qadisha Inn.

Sunset from Qadisha Inn

We visited the monastery of Mar Lichaa, an amazing hermitage built into grottos high up in the cliffs. Joseph Karam, the man who originally conceived of the LMT and runs Ecodit, joined us for lunch. I was so excited to show him the book.

Chapel at Mar Lichaa

We got an amazing view from the ridgeline above Ehden. Stopped in Ehden for yummy local sweets and were adopted by a dog we called Rover. He stayed with us all the way to Wadi Qadisha, 13km!

Wadi Qadisha

The British ambassador hiked with us from Bqaa Sefrine to Horsh Ehden. She had a good time. It’s a very ‘wild’ part of the country.

The British ambassador climbing up to Mgharat el Hawa

Nayla and I on Day 5 near Horsh Ehden

Below Wadi Swaqi