We start our hike in the hills above the town of Kfar Aqab. The town square is called Blata (The Rock). A reference to the very same in Amin Maalouf’s “The Rock Of Tanios”. In fact we can actually see Mr. Maalouf’s house in his hometown of Ain el Qabou from one of the many vistas on our route today. It is a long and grueling 600m uphill to the cliffs below Shwar Baskinta but the views are worth it despite the stubborn haze that we have had for past couple of days.

The Cave of Sayf el Dawleh

Our amazing guide Georges Hobeika has packed us a homemade lunch: Moujaddarah, salads, side dishes and special Baskinta Kaak. Joseph Karam joins us at our lunch spot bringing with him Chillies (ice cold beers). We all eat far more than we should, but can’t help ourselves. We know we will pay for it on the final climb out of Wadi Jamajim to Baskinta. Sleiman Kettaneh, our second local guide, takes me to the edge of a field to show me the cave of Sayf el Dawleh on the other side of the valley. Padre (who is also a caving expert) tells us it is only accessible by ropes.