Climbing Mt. Hermon

Written by hana on September 29th, 2009

To commemorate World Tourism Day, Pascale Abdallah (Responsible mobilities), organized a ‘Green’ ascent to the summit of Mt. Hermon (AKA Jabal El Sheikh). At 2814 m it is the second highest peak in Lebanon and has an exceptional view of three countries: Lebanon, Syria and Occupied Palestine). We got up at daybreak and commenced our hike in the town of Chebaa, famous among other things, for it’s 7 watermills. It owes it’s existence to the water and snows of Mt. Hermon. A tough hike by most standards: 2000 m of elevation gain that  is virtually all uphill, it took us about 7hrs. to get to the summit.

Apple break

Apple break

Most of our supplies (tents, water and food) were packed up by mules.

The Mule and I

Bitter cold and stong winds were the price to pay for our 1st class seats to an amazing sunrise. We all agreed it was worth it.

Sunrise From The Peak

Sunrise From The Peak

Protecting The Kfardebiane Natural Bridge

Written by hana on August 17th, 2009

On Saturday August 8th, I took part in a protest against the attempt to construct a private residence in close proximity to the Kfardebiane natural bridge.  An extremely rare natural occurance, this land bridge (a product of hundreds of thousands of years of unique geological conditions) is massive in scale (52m long and 58m in height) and a breathtaking sight. It lies, unfortunately close to a private plot of land.  Environmental groups and NGO’s have fought for its preservation for the past 15 years. Despite  decrees by the government declaring it  a national preserve the landowner continuously attempts to bypass and contest these laws. The planned construction would definitely threaten the structural integrity of the bridge.

The Kfardebiane natural bridge seen from the western approach

The Kfardebiane natural bridge seen from the west

If you look right above the bridge and to the left you can make out the stone wall that the owner has already built.

Landbridge protesters

Protestors' banner reads: DON'T TOUCH THE NATURAL STONE BRIDGE

It was heartening to see such a strong turnout: celebrities (including Maxime Chaaya, the first Lebanese to climb Everest), politicians, environmental groups, youth organizations, eco-tour operators and substantial media coverage.  The bridge is one of the prominent landmarks on the LMT.

For more photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hagopkazazian/2270312312/

Going Back To The End

Written by hana on August 2nd, 2009
Looking up the street towards Mr.Hourani's house in Marjeyoun

Looking up the street towards Mr.Hourani's house in Marjeyoun

Our last day of the hike seemed like a blur of reporters and town officials. It was quite emotional for us (The core team) as the reality of having hiked 440 km sank in suddenly. What I do remember clearly is that I promised myself I would come back to Marjeyoun.  I’m so glad I did. We took a leisurely walk in the town center, starting at the municipality. It was nice to revisit the streets lined with numerous old Lebanese style houses, that I had only glimpsed fleetingly from the bus.

Old-house-in-Marjeyoun

Abandoned houses in Marjeyoun

Some were renovated, some abandoned and all were uniquely beautiful. While strolling past  a charming renovated  home, I paused to admire the craftsmanship of the large entrance door. Like many village homes in Lebanon, the door was ajar. The owner came out and insisted that we all come in for coffee and cold drinks. As it turns out Mr. Adnan Hourani (President of Jdeidet Marjeyoun Club)  remembered me from the press conference on April 30th (not that it had anything to do with his warm hospitality). It is wonderful that one can feel so welcome with people they have just met.

Meeting Gypsies in the Beqaa

Written by hana on July 21st, 2009

On the Eastern side of the Qaroun dam we met a family of gypsies who come every spring for the sheep shearing season. The older siblings were busy grouping the sheep in the pen. Fortunately, their  striking older sister Samar wasn’t camera shy, much to Norbert’s delight( Photo to be featured in the book).

Photo taken by Maurizio Paoli

Photo taken by Maurizio Paoli

Cedars for Soldiers

Written by hana on May 26th, 2009

There have been many efforts to reforest the cedars all  over Lebanon. The most poignant being a hillside in the Chouf Cedar Reserve where a cedar was planted in the name of each soldier who lost his life in the Nahr El Bared conflict.

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A Rare Spotting

Written by hana on May 17th, 2009

On the trail from Baskinta to Zaarour, we spotted a rather rare species of  VW camper that had somehow strayed from its usual habitat. This particular specimen is indigenous to Lebanon as evidenced by its red and white markings.

vw-below-sannine

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Goats, Dog, and a Donkey

Written by hana on May 14th, 2009

It has been a long-standing tradition in Lebanon for residents of the coastal cities and towns of lower elevation to escape the summer heat by going up to the mountains for the summer. This is called estivation. We encountered  this goat herder with his herd, dogs and mule on the way to their summer residence in the highlands (seriously). By the way, the guy in the hat is Padre, not the goat herder.

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Reflecting back on the Thru-Walk

Written by hana on May 8th, 2009

Hana on Break

I am happy to have shared a glimpse of this wonderful adventure with all of you.  In the coming months I hope to revisit many of the villages and sites that I didn’t have as much time in as I would have liked.  There are so many interesting people I would like to talk to more.

So I will continue to update the blog with new pictures taken by different people who joined us, and my trips back into the mountains. Be sure to come back weekly and check for new stories from our adventure. As for Norbert’s photos; you’ll just have to wait for the book  : ). Thank you all for your feedback and comments. I apologize for not responding immediately. It was all I could do to just get the blog post out every day.

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The Last Stretch: Hasbaya to Marjeyoun

Written by hana on May 4th, 2009

Day 29

Members of the youth organization SOIL (Save Our Inherited Land) gave us a very warm welcome last night in Hasbaya. They manage the LMT guest house here, and do it with great enthusiasm and energy.

save-our-inherited-land-soil-youth-organisation

A brief walk through the streets of Hasbaya lead us out into the fields and terraced olive groves. We skirted the heavily wooded oak forest of Hasbaya through shoulder high grass, flowers and thistle. There was an abundance of thick trunked olive trees. Many over 1000 yrs. old.
In the town of Ibl El Saqi we met a contingent of French UNIFIL forces.

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They were very interested in what we were doing and asked many questions about the LMT. Just outside of town we passed by the ruins of a caravanserai that used to be on the ancient trade routes.

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Rashaya to Hasbaya

Written by hana on April 30th, 2009

Day 28

Both we left this morning, our host took us upon his terrace to look at Rashaya from above. It is a very picturesque town with red roofs and cobblestone roads.

rooftops-of-rashaya

The trek today was through the foothills of Mt. Hermon.

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We hiked through many orchards and olive groves. We encountered farmers tending to their plots. Many times it would be an elderly couple working together.

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